Monday, 3 July 2017

Bead Embroidery; It's sparkly, I want it.

So last year, I was working with the Halifax Summer Opera Festival and one of the baroque operas was set in modern day. The theme was very opulent: Dolce and Gabbana Haute Couture. No mean feat. A friend of mine was in charge of that opera, and gosh was she perfect for it. Her and the artistic director worked together and brought to life this absolutely breathtaking masterpiece of an opera on a budget that shouldn't have allowed for such splendor. Okay, maybe I'm laying the butter a bit thickly here, but I was seriously impressed.


One day, while hanging out in the dressing room, I spied with my little eye some jewellery that was laying on the counter. With a few quick steps, I was over, ogling the dainty pieces that the artistic director had painstakingly bead embroidered.


LOOK AT THIS!!! It is incredibly beautiful. I sneakily took a few pictures... Thinking to myself I would attempt to re-create one of those mini masterpieces at a later time. And ha! For once, an hypothetical project did come to fruition. And it only took almost a year. *Pat myself on the back.*

I must have started at some point in April, maybe, not too sure. But we're now at the beginning of July, and I juuuuuust finished a pair of earrings. Granted, working on these wasn't a full-time job sort of schedule, it was more of a few intense evenings, a couple of weeks off, an afternoon here, another evening there. You get the picture.

Anyhow, it was quite the learning curve, as I never thought I had any talent at embroidery, let alone bead embroidery. There are plenty of good blogs and videos out there to take the absolute beginner from zero knowledge to being confident enough to make some jewellery that holds together and looks good. Thank you internet.


No pictures of the actual process were taken... I wonder what my camera was up to. Must have wandered into a snow bank or something... But eh, it came back just in time to see the final steps of the process. On the above photo, we see the backing - which is real yellow suede, possibly dear hide? - in the middle is a crucial albeit invisible part of the finished pieces - thin plastic cut from a raspberry container, to support the piece so that it can stand on its own - and finally, the embroidered crosses on a thick felt.


Once the pieces were cut out, because of a critical lack of experience, I had to re-bead a couple of spots around the edges. It's curiously easy to snip off the threads...


With the layers sandwiched together and whip stitched around the edges, it's time to do a brick border, where the beads are lying perpendicular to the edges, covering the joint. Surprisingly tedious. I think I did one half of the first earring, put the entire thing down and didn't go back to it for three weeks.


Zeal took over near the end, when it was decided that dangling bits would enhance the crosses. And while I was at it, might as well add the hook to the random crystal I'd been carrying around in my purse for a few weeks.


The finished earrings are sparkly! And obviously mismatched... I thought I would play around with different ideas. Plus, it might have taken another entire year to complete if I had decided to do both earrings the same. There is practically no fun in doing something exactly the same twice. Hehehe, I know, I know, such a rebel.

It might be a good idea not to wear them with a lot of other earrings though. They aren't exactly what one might call "small and dainty". More like "large and obnoxiously in your face". Perfect!


They didn't seem that heavy, and out of curiosity I thought I would weigh them, along with some other earrings in my possession. I was actually surprised that they are more heavy than the brass mandalas. Maybe I was fooled because they are bigger, softer, and just a bit flexible. They aren't uncomfortably heavy, but I probably won't wear them for 16 hours at a time. Should be easy enough.


Monday, 23 January 2017

Icelandic Fixation

What do you do when you've discovered your new favourite yarn? Mostly soft, a little scratchy, REALLY warm, deliciously airy. Well, sounds like you're describing icelandic yarn.

As I inch my time through life towards becoming an old lady, I thought why not speed up the process a little. Being a little old lady at heart in my early 20s is cool, right? Right.

Anyhow, winter serving as an excuse - ahem, WinterLikeOnlyNorthernCanadaKnowsHowToMake (and possibly Siberia, but that's far) - I decided to undertake a rather large knitting project. Large by my standards. It's not yet another giant scarf, those are actually quite easy, they're simply time exhaustive. It is a lovely sweater. After knitting a rather funny elfish hat with bells and using the leftovers for hand-warmers, I wanted an excuse to use the lettlopi yarn again. It's such a breeze to knit with; it has a wonderful, fuzzy texture, it's light and airy, and it's 100% pure icelandic sheep wool. And the Gods only know how much I love working with completely natural fibres. Acrylic can't compete with this stuff. From personal experience, pure synthetic fibres can't hold a candle to the natural ones. Even though technically acrylic is slightly warmer than wool (exact citation in a textile textbook somewhere in a box, packed away), it doesn't breathe as well, it's not as comfortable, and it doesn't retain as nice an appearance once a garment is knitted.

The pattern I used is found here: www.ravelry.com veurfringurinn/weatherman
Available in both English and Icelandic, nominal cost of $6 US dollars. It's a simple pattern, excellent for a first time sweater project.

It seems typical for icelandic sweaters to be done in this sequence: knit the body from the hem up, knit the sleeves from the cuffs, join the body and sleeves in the round, work the pattern and the decreases in the yoke, knit the collar. And bam: wearable coziness. Don't skip over the blocking step. It's important if you want the sweater to fall properly. Plus, it smells like lanolin (wet sheep) while you steam it and it's great. Yes, trust me.

When you think about it, hand knitting is definitely not the right craft if you want to make a buck or two. It took about two and a half months of work - evenings and weekend-free time - to complete this piece. Cost for the balls of yarn came to about $65-70 CAD. So now you know, if someone ever gifts you a handmade sweater, it's worth gold. Seriously. There are no other pieces like it, and so much time and effort went into it, you better treasure it until the end of eternity.

As per usual, my efforts to document this project have been concentrated at the end of the process, hence there are only pictures of an almost completed, and completed sweater.

Colour work

Kitty helps

Done knittng

Blocking

Tah-Dah

Tuesday, 13 September 2016

Toastie-toes, or at least that's the hope

What is dreadful?
Spiders, Milk forgotten in the fridge, dog puke on the carpet, wet cat food... Many things, indeed.
Frozen toes though, they deserve a golden award. Frozen toes five minutes after a shower. Frozen toes that keep you from falling asleep for three hours until they warm up. Someone else's frozen toes in the back of your knees keeping you from falling asleep until they warm up.
So, in an effort to curb this dreaded thing, I decided to make myself some shmancy-shnice-shlippers. I vote we add this word to the Oxford Dictionary. Anyone to second the motion? Anyways, here's how I made these lovelies.

A while back - about a year or so - I came across this picture.
The pattern is just so attractive, and they look so playful. They became the inspiration for my newest pair of warm-feet-envelopes.

From previous experience, I knew that knitting slippers fully out of yarn - especially nice (read expensive) yarn, such as soft wool or other animal fibers - would deteriorate quite quickly on the pressure points under the feet. And require darning just a few short months after being completed. And since I refuse to use phentex, had to come up with a way to reinforce the bottoms. The lady at the yarn store suggested adding a soft leather sole - brilliant. But I thought I'd save myself the effort by dispensing altogether having a knit sole. In the end, I decided to knit an upper, and use suede for the sole. Quite like a simplified version of a mukluk really, which fits really well since I now live in Northern Canada.

And because I don't like doing anything the easy way, decided to come up with my own pattern and everything. I started by knitting a swatch in my chosen yarn, a fine, but not quite sock-weight baby llama yarn, to get my gauge. Once that was established and I measured my foot, I came up with a pattern that would fit nicely. And had fun coming up with a simple design, using two colours and somewhat fair-isle-esque technique.
After spending a few evenings knitting and binge watching documentaries, I had my uppers all done. You know what's really satisfying? Blocking the knitting once it's completed. Getting it to unfurl with the steam, and then lay flat and happy.
Once those had cooled, I seamed them at the back, and knitted a cuff in a bulkier yarn.
Then, while wearing one, I traced around my foot on a piece of paper and came up with an acceptable sole pattern. Which I then cut out of the suede. I'm not sure which animal it is, I'll venture and guess deer?
With an awl, I poked holes about every centimeter along the perimeter of the sole, then whip-stitched the upper to it. With any luck, they should last for a while and keep me toesies warm.
And if not, then I'll add a layer of rabbit fur on the inside.
 And voilà!

Sunday, 6 March 2016

The Ambitious Fool

- I hereby declare myself an ambitious fool!
Claimed she in a high and clear voice. Her ambitions had nothing to do with advancement within the societal model she loathed, the gain of power, or the amassment of riches. Grinning widely, she had a silent chuckle and thought about how much of a fool she really was. In short, she liked the idea of undertaking projects devised by her devilish mind. They promised growth of knowledge and sense of accomplishment, as well as a welcome new addition to her portfolio. The only problem she could think of was regarding her might-as-well-call-it-masochistic mind which rejoiced at throwing too much at once into the project pile, and then sitting back to enjoy the chaos that ensued. From experience, she knew that it would always come down to a tug-of-war between the desire need to keep busy and work on fulfilling  tasks and the primal need for quietness and regenerative sleep.

Alas, what could she do but try her best to reach a state of equilibrium between these two, which were demanded so voraciously by her inner self? And so, between the grind of day to day activities such as employment, house chores and a pinch of socializing, she aims to get through her latest list of projects and still get enough rest to not feel like a zombie on a daily basis.

The first step towards the realization of this goal is to limit the amount of time wasted on distractions that actually don't matter. For instance, aimlessly browsing the internet too often.

The second step is to keep a list of the projects that demand to be accomplished, and then arrange them by priority. Hence, here is the list of projects for the month (or two months? It might very well be too much, she is a fool after all, and has a sly keenness to overfill her plate):

- Class plan

- Class display material
- Actual class material
- Chart of scene breakdown for the opera
- Costume list for the opera
- Costume renderings for the opera
- The new scarf project which is, as usual, way too complicated
- Feather-fabric dress
- Two flower crowns for Spring
- High-waisted corduroy pants
- Using up some fabric from the stash for its intended purpose

Nothing is highlighted in red - yet. Orange means that it needs to be completed by the end of March. Yellow indicates that it must be completed sometime in April, possibly. Green denotes mostly personal projects, the ones that would be nice to get to, but if not, it's not a tragedy.
That is a good way to linger in a sane state of mind.

Sunday, 21 February 2016

Chasm

Have you ever felt like you were standing on a ledge; at the edge of a chasm; a deep precipice beckoning? Not that you would jump, because there is no need to jump. A simple step forward will catapult you into a new chapter. There is no dropping down, falling, waiting to hit the bottom. But rather, and impression of accelerating through the air, as if propulsed by some invisible force at your back, pushing you further and further away from everything you've known and experienced up to this point in your life.

It's easy. Lift your foot, move it forward, and take that step. Suddenly, tumbling, screaming, laughing, you can't be stopped. What awaits on the other side of the abyss? What mysteries? What new scenarios?

Of course, that's all in your head. Your imagination runs loose and wild, swirling, up and up and around, exploring the possibilities. Oh what an exhilarating feeling! What exuberance!

Grounded. You are grounded, you haven't moved. Still, you linger on the edge. There is only one direction, and that is forward. You cannot go back. Can't retain what was, must embrace what will be. It's terrifying. You breathe slowly, trying to focus your mind on the next step you must take. Still you linger. Always linger. Although you desperately want a new future, a new life, you cannot help but grab at the tatters of your past. Melancholia already has a hold of you. Your fears have their claws buried so deep into your flesh that your feet are glued to the piece of earth on which you are standing.

Any moment now. It takes courage to let go. You feel a movement, a rumble under your feet. You couldn't act fast enough, so the world is pushing you forward. The ground is no longer beneath your feet. your body feels weightless as wind twirls around you. The edge of the chasm on which you were just standing is shrinking rapidly behind you. No point in looking back. Your future awaits.

Good luck to you, my friend.

Wednesday, 6 January 2016

2016 resolution: Destroy

I've been mulling over this for a good chunk of the day. It's also been on my mind for a few nights this past week, turning into low-level anxiety attacks and insomnia.

I'm stuck. Metaphorically as well as literally. I'm stuck in this vicious cycle that is supposed to be life. At least by our North American standards and the shitty way it has unfolded for my generation.
On this unsustainable system which operates on debt, I'm infinitely stuck. The tunnel curls on itself and doesn't let me see the end - will it ever I ask.

I'm incredibly angry, and incessantly exhausted. I know it's the case for several of my peers - toiling away 50 to 60 hours a week, juggling jobs, trying to make ends meet. For what? To feed into this idiotic system. We get in debt to pay for school, then once we're out of school, we have to pay back our loans. Simple concept, makes a lot of sense. Pair this with an economy that has been stalled for almost a decade, and which apparently is going down the drain yet again - though were we ever able to get back to a stable situation between then and now; no - and you've got a recipe for success. Jobs are hard to get, and when we do have jobs, they pay very little. Trying to live on a small income while paying of student debt is nearly impossible.

In Halifax, for instance, median prices for appartments are $600-700 a month. Unless you live with a ton of other people, or live in a shit-hole, or both. At near-minimum wage, that's almost half of one's income. Add to that utilities, food, and all the other shebang, not much left. And then come the loans. Fuck them. Fuck all of it.

I'm stuck. I can't move forward. I dream of the day when I'll break out of this circle. Step aside, let it roll on, like the wheel of misfortune that it truly is. I want to escape, run away to some faraway place, never come back. Abandon everything behind, and create a new life some new place.

These are only dreams, and probably the only thing worth living for at the moment. Nothing rouses passion like anger. And I'm so angry at my own powerlessness that it fuels my inner fire. I want to destroy everything of that system which keeps us chained. Rebuild anew. Create a world where young people aren't so fucking hindered as soon as they reach adulthood. How are we supposed to build a better tomorrow if we can't even afford our today?

Monday, 25 May 2015

The German Experience Through My Glasses

In just a few days, my contract as a language assistant – Fremdsprachassistentin is the German title, FSA in short – will be over. It will be
time to empty my room into my suitcase, put on my boots, give the apartment key to my roommate and definitely leave this town that I called home for the past nine months.

As a teenager I dreamed of coming to Germany, I listened to German music, I painted the flag on my nails. I felt such a strong draw that when I entered university I started right away with German classes and declared a German major. Fast-forward a few years, I switched into a double major with German as my second subject, and successfully graduated from university. From my very first year in uni, my German professors told me about a programme with which I could move to Germany and teach English in a school after I graduated. I applied, I got in. Somewhat following a dream I suppose.

Before I arrived, I didn’t have any specific set of expectations, so I can’t say that my expectations haven’t been met, or that they’ve been exceeded. In fact, it’s probably a good thing that I didn’t have any, because I have been so tremendously let down anyhow. I would have been utterly shattered if I had had any to begin with.

A few factors have certainly contributed to my dissatisfaction with the past few months. Though I want to clear beforehand that I am extremely grateful for the experience, all the opportunities for travels and the personal growth that resulted from it. I’m not dissing Germany as a country, I’m not saying don’t go there it sucks. I’m merely sharing my experience of the country and the programme that I did. So, the factors are:
1 – I’m in conservative East Germany, because yes, there is still a very distinct division in the mentalities between East and West, and from what I was told, Weimar is actually not too bad compared to other cities in Thuringia.
2 – The environment in which I found myself wasn’t great for meeting, well, anyone. I was surrounded by kids 10 to 18 years, and by teachers 33 and above. I reached out on the Bauhaus University facebook page and on couchsurfing, and succeeded in making a few friends, though it took me months.
3 – I can be quite shy when out of my element and fettered by a lack of alcohol in my bloodstream. Plus, German is DIFFICULT, with my insecurities about the language in the first few months, no wonder I was heading straight for disaster.

The first person who greeted me in my new home was one of the girls that was living in one of my roommates room in September. I got along with the girls quite well, although we had some communication difficulties.

The next person that I encountered was my Betreuerin – the teacher in charge of me – she brought me some basic necessities (sheets, pillow, blanket, towels..) as well as a map on how to get to the school the next day, and a book passed on by one of her colleagues titled “how to be German”.

I read all the 50 steps in the book, but they’re not as much steps as much as pieces of information to understand some aspects of German culture. No matter how well you understand and value that knowledge, it doesn’t help you to actually become German.

The first month, I was adjusting to my new surroundings and I didn’t mind spending a lot of time with only myself for company. Then, when I grew tired of being alone, I tried to make some more friends. One friend that I made during the first week here invited me to some evenings now and then, where I mingled with Germans and realized how absolutely incompatible – and incapable of carrying a conversation with them – I was.

Thankfully, my purpose in Germany was not only to fail socially, but also to educate young minds in the terrible language that is English. The school was really great. It was so fantastic to be working with such a diverse range of age groups; from the little ones in grade 5 to the borderline adults in grade 12, through all sorts of teenagers. Personally, the groups I like working the most with where grades 5 through 7, for three silly reasons. Firstly, those children are ridiculously adorable, secondly they are still curious and interested in learning, and thirdly because they were always so happy to see me, and it’s hard not to crack the biggest smile when you walk in a class and all the kids shout your name and start clapping. How could I possibly not like them? I also really enjoyed working with the 12th graders, because they probably benefited the most from having conversation groups. I value working in smaller groups rather than larger ones, and the students were really open and unrestrained in their speech around me – probably due to our closeness in age and the fact that I don’t really look like a teacher at all. The teenagers were definitely a mixed bunch; some were absolutely indifferent, some cracked inappropriate sexual jokes, some were really endearing, some really impressed me, some really annoyed me. All in all, normal behaviour for teenagers. It’s incredible to think that I’ve been working at the school since September and that already, my time at the school has come to an end. I’ll certainly miss the students (most of them) and the teachers (all of them) with whom I’ve worked.

My roommates are also very German, in the fact that they are very nice, but they keep to themselves a lot, and we didn’t really do much of anything together. (For the first term of university, which ends in February. In April I had a new roommate with whom I’ve spent time and we get along well.) Although we share a very small apartment between the three of us, I can’t say I really know them that well. The apartment itself isn’t exactly conducive to socializing. The kitchen is ridiculously small, and only has a counter with two chairs, whereas we are three living here, and there is no living room or otherwise shared hanging-out space. (It made me realize how much I value the function of a living room and a kitchen with an actual table.)

Finally, I did make friends with a number of international students. We went to a metal concert, had some house parties, went to the opera and the theatre, visited a 12th century castel in West Thuringia… I had a lot of fun with them, and it made me realize that I was hanging out almost exclusively with non-Germans, and that the Germans with whom I spent time had spent a considerable amount of time in Ausland – that’s a beautifully concise word that means in a foreign country or countries. I haven’t quite decided if that meant anything yet, but it leaves a very strong impression. I’m also absolutely not saying that all Germans that spend their whole life in Germany are jerks to foreigners. I’m simply stating the impressions that I have gathered by living here.

I wrote my own tips on how to successfully blend into the German crowd:
1 – Speak the language perfectly before you arrive (for your own sanity, in the East most people over 30 never learned English, so speaking German is an absolute must).
2 – Never mention that you are only there for a definite amount of time (Germans invest their time very carefully, and if they know that you’re only there for a given amount of time, chances are that they will decide not to pursue a friendship with you, because it would be wasted energy…)
3 – Learn that flirting is taken extremely seriously - so-called casual encounters are unheard of – only serious relationship are considered, and so, the Germans stick to a lengthy and complicated seduction ritual that consists of at least three instances of simple “hallo” and “tschuess” before anymore can be said, and don’t forget it might take a couple of weeks before the first hi in any case. Don’t despair, once you’ve reached step 27 – allow around 8 months to get there - you might get your first kiss, a quick, dry, simple contact of the lips… You get the picture. (This I learned from another Canadian girl that goes to university here. I’m not speaking from experience - refer to number 2, I made that mistake way too many times, and never reached further than step 6, which is still in the awkward conversation phase.)

Upon examination, I can say that my dissatisfaction with the German experience stems half from my social awkwardness and the same situation would probably have unfolded wherever I might have lived in the world, and on the other half by the German reaction to foreigners combined to their habit of keeping to their own.

On the bright side, I did get the opportunity to travel very extensively during the many German “Ferien” and many a weekends too. Whenever I ventured out of Weimar to whichever place my wanderlust took me to, I had quite a great time and met really amazing people from all over Europe the world! As much as I might have felt isolated in Weimar at times, I could never have had the same opportunities for travel had I not worked for this programme. So I am very grateful for the experience, and I am now ready to move on to another chapter in my life, which I hope, will also feature lots of traveling and will let me further my personal growth until I am happy with the person that I will have become.


Alicia and I looking fabulous in Ravensburg, Oct. 2014.

Wednesday, 29 April 2015

Recreating A Painting

When I visited the Louvre museum in September, I jotted down the name of some paintings and artists that were formerly unknown to me. The Louvre is huge, so I only took note of those paintings that elicited a curiosity in me, or tickled my fancy.

One such is L'ange guardien, by Henri Decaisne.
There are two versions of the painting, and I like this one better. It was painted in 1835-36. From what little information seems to be out there about Decaisne, he was an historical and portrait painter.
Now, upon examining the painting, it is clear that the mother is not wearing a corset. Her outfit certainly doesn't strike us as Victorian. Must be one of his historical interpretations. Okay, I can deal with that, let's do some research.
I was able to gather that the outfit depicted is most likely Italian, originally from around the area of Naples. I could possibly be wrong, I'm basing that information from the very particular headdress that she is wearing. All bits and pieces of information - which remains scattered, thin, elusive, and haven't brought up a name for the headdress yet - point in the general direction of being worn by Italian women.
The next clue is brought by the chemise, or rather, camicia. The sleeves that go all the way to the wrist, and their fullness definitely rules out being originally from the 19th century. Let's roll back in time until we find what period it comes from. 18th century didn't have such long sleeves, they stopped at about elbow length. 17th century, much like that of the 18th century in the second half. Early 17th century seems to be a fit. So is 16th century.
Next up, her bodice. We can clearly see the curves of her form in it, and the fabric slightly rippling under her breasts. It's not boned. It confirms the theory of 16th-early 17th century. During the 16th century, stiffened bodices were just starting to emerge and become fashionable and would have been worn most likely only by the gentry.
It is also difficult to accurately research peasants, because there is so little remaining evidence pertaining to their everyday lives in comparison to what we still have from the higher classes. And generally speaking, high class clothing is much more impressive and interesting than that of peasants.
From this, I'm fairly confident that we can agree on say mid-late 16th century. Suits me.

Determining the layers that she is wearing and their materials is straight-forward.
Camicia: white linen
Bodice: natural linen lining, red wool georgette outer, edging in black silk ribbon
Underskirt: black linen
Overskirt: ochre silk-wool gabardine
Belt: same black linen as the underskirt

These are quite nice fabrics, and brightly coloured. She could be from the lower-middle class. Maybe these are her festive clothes? In any case, the bright colours are an indication that they are nicer fabrics than just plain ol' linen. Animal fibres dye more brightly and retain colour better than vegetal fibres. It makes sense that her bodice would be a thin wool. And for the over skirt, it looks like a nice thick fabric.

I used my 17th century cartridge pleated skirt (see my post from December 8) for the underskirt. Time period wise, it's still mostly correct, and it's an underskirt, so mostly not visible unless I hike the overskirt.

Then I decided to make the belt. I finished it in Februrary, and it had been sitting, dejected, on a shelf since then.
A picture during construction. At this point, I've finished the rolled hem on both sides, picked out all the crosswise threads from one end, and tied the remaining lengthwise threads into little tassels to create a fringe.

After that, still in February,  I sewed up the side seams on the ochre skirt - leaving a 10 cm opening on each side, as I was planning on having a double-tie fastening system - and hemmed it. Then it sat dejected on a chair until a week and a half ago, when a violent rage came over me like a storm of bundled up, frustrated energy that needed to be released. And so I pleated the waistband - I used rolled pleats, because I decided that I'd never used them before, and I already have a skirt with cartridge pleats, and two with knife pleats - until it was the required half width of my waist on both the front and back panels. I used  twill tape on the back panel to secure the pleats and extend into ties. Along the front panel I used a silk ribbon - that I had bought in Paris in September because I liked it, and never really intended to use it for this purpose, but which happened to match my fabric perfectly.
Pleats ready to be sewn down. I left the turned down edge raw on the inside of the skirt. I don't think it will ravel too much, no worries to be made over this.

As soon as the skirt was finished, I decided to start on the camicia. As I had only ever made an 18th century chemise and my only other references to under garments are for the medieval period - since all my books are in a box in my parents' basement while I'm in Germany - I had to do some looking around. I came across this website here that details quite well how to make a Venetian camicia from A to Z. I looked at the diagrams and briefly read through her notes. They were helpful, though I didn't feel like reading every single thing on the page, as I only needed a few key pieces of information. Such as the size of the underarm gussets - which are quite large at 9" - as well as the width of the sleeves and some clues on the construction process.
Working with only two metres of fabric, I couldn't include the two extra side panels, which isn't a problem anyhow, the camicia is already quite full.

On Friday (Apr 24), I took the preliminary pattern I had drafted for the bodice back in February and made a few changes. I elongated the front wait into a point, and I moved the shoulder strap seams. Then I cut out one layer from the natural linen, basted them together and tried it on. For a first try, it was almost a perfect fit. I raise the back waist to reduce the puckering and fiddled with the front points, and then I cut a second front to use as interlining. Then I sewed the entire thing together, along with a strip of twill tape at waist level to prevent stretching and to give more stability to the bodice. I cut out the bodice in my outer fabric, sewed it to the lining, and put more twill tape into the front edges. Like this:
Then I turned it right-side out, and started to apply the black ribbon edging.
It was tedious to sew this part on, but really satisfying once it was done. Also bound the armhole with the ribbon. And then onto the eyelets. According to the period and the painting, it is spiraled lace, which means that at the top and bottom there are two eyelets level with each other, but in between they are all offset by an equal amount. My eyelets look fine right now, but I might have to redo them in the future. I should also stabilize them with a small metal washer on the inside.

Then I got to dress up! Even though it was 2 in the morning. From this point on I have mostly really lame cellphone-mirror-selfies, you know the type. Warning has been given.
Sideview, I'm quite happy with it.

 Then when I tried to take it off I realized that I was stuck. Couldn't get the lace back out of the eyelets - until I had the idea to use a large darning needle and gently stretch a few eyelets.

 Once freed, I put on the camicia and jumped back into the bodice.

And into the underskirt.

 And into the overskirt.

And finally came the belt.

I'm definitely proud of myself for sewing the whole thing by hand, though I realized how much I miss my Precious. I never claimed to be fully sane in the first place, and I think I've left some of that somewhere during the past week. (Sewing till 2-3 am almost everyday for a week and a half almost nonstop can't be healthy, can it?)
I already knew that I'm not incredibly fast at hand sewing, and the sheer amount of time it took me to complete these pieces confirms that fact.

Nonetheless, now I have a spiffy outfit to wear whenever I feel like it's the 1500s.

Monday, 8 December 2014

17th century skirt

At first, I bought the piece of linen that I used for this skirt thinking that I would make a surcoat, a cotehardie or something in the like. Then, I decided that I really missed my green linen 18th century petticoat. I was tempted to recreate it, then I thought: "No! Foolish you, Audrey, you don't need another 18th century petticoat! Make something else, expand your knowledge!" And thus, listening to the loud voice in my head, I decided to recreate a mid-17th century skirt.

First step in the endeavour: gathering relevant information.
For example, this outfit. When looking at the ensemble closely, you can tell that the front of the skirt is left straight, while the sides and back are gathered into cartridge pleats. The very top of the pleats are bound by a strip of fabric that is also used to tie the skirt at the back.

Since I have plain black linen, and that the only interesting details are the pleat at the waist, it is very straightforward to make. I measured from my waist to the floor for the length, and added 2 1/2 inches. 1/2 inch at the bottom for the hem, and 2 inches at the top to be folded over at the waist and offer support to help the pleats stand up. 

Now that we know what the skirt needs to look like, and how long the fabric needs to be, it's quite easy to proceed. I used the full width of my fabric, and cut two rectangles of the required length. I joined the selvedges together, and since I kept them intact, no need to finish those edges! Hurray.
Then I did a double fold at the bottom, and hemmed my skirt. It took me a few days, because I was sewing at a very leisurely pace, and because this is done entirely by hand, for a lack of a sewing machine.

Next step, fold the top edge down by 2 inches. Remember the extra that we added at the beginning? Yes, that's where it goes. The skirt should now be the exact length that we wanted, in this case, waist to floor. Perfect.

I cut a slit in the center back, about 20 cm long, and bound it with a 1 inch wide placket.

Now to the pleats! From looking at the image above, I would say that the pleats are probably 2-3 inches long. I decided to make mine 2 1/4 inches, just a little longuer than the extra fabric on the inside. I left 5 inches at centre front free and flat, and marked it with pins. There are going to be three rows of stitches holding the pleats in place, the first one 1/4 inch from the top, and the subsequent will be an inch apart from one another.

I started poking my needle through the fabric, 1/4 inch from the folded edge, at 1 cm intervals. (Okay, okay, I know, I keep switching between inches and cm... Sorry. I'll blame it on my Canadian-ness, where we use the metric system in school, and the imperial system at home...) I got bored quickly of this method, it was slow, and holding my measuring tape up to the fabric was starting to get annoying. Had I brought some smart marking device, like my tailor's pen, I would have used that. Unfortunately, my bare-minimum-survival-sewing kit only has a small chunk or rather non-too-sharp wax chalk. I had a brilliant idea though! I created a paper template. And used it. It was glorious.
It's a very simple thing indeed! I took a piece of paper, marked a line 1/4 inch from the edge, and another an inch lower, and cut the paper 1/4 inch after that second line. Result, a piece of paper that is 1 1/2 inch wide. Then I marked the edges at a 1 cm interval, and cut little channels based on those marks. All I had to do after? Paper to the folded edge of fabric and one over, one under, one over, one under. Then do the same on the bottom row. Remove paper from first line, fold over second time, repeat the over-under sequence to create third row of stitches. Rinse and repeat until the top edge is pleated completely on both sides.
This is the picture of the first side pleated. It's incredible how much fabric can be gathered up in these pleats. But this is definitely not the finish width... I had to release the pleats on a few inches. Then I tied the threads in the back.

After the correct waist measurement was attained, it was time to bind the top of the pleats. I took a long-ish strip of linen, folded one edge over, attached it to the front of the pleats and along the flat edge at centre front. Then folded the other edge under, and whip-stitched it to the inside of the skirt. I finished the ties, and now my skirt is ready to wear!!

Some pictures of the finished skirt, on my very professional looking red background... Namely the carpet.
   

And on me. It fits. It's real. I like it. :)










Wednesday, 29 October 2014

Family and Friends' update, Halloween 2014

Keeping in touch might not be my forte, and I can't promise about anything in the future, but here is my first vlog! I'm sure it could have been about a thousand times better, unfortunately, it isn't... Because I didn't really prepare anything, and the last time I used movie maker was for an art project in highschool, in 2009... So it's been a while. Nevertheless, here it is, my first proud video.


ps. I don't actually think the content is that great, my thoughts are scattered all over the place, and I'm not even telling you about the actual experience of teaching in Germany! What a fail of an update! *Self-critical, sarcastic laugh*
Also, I'd like to mention that despite this video seemingly showing my lack of able-ness to give a presentation, I assure you that I can give you a mighty power point presentation about Canada. :)


Friday, 17 October 2014

Okay, let’s be uncomfortable now

Now, before you read this, I will say a few words. They are very important, hence the bold font. If you get easily anxious about finances, don't read this. If thinking about money stresses you out, don't read this. In this post, I am getting completely financially naked about my student loan debt. It's uncomfortable, and brutally honest. I haven't made up any numbers, this is all the absolute truth. This is an account of my experience with financing my post-secondary education.

This is a touchy subject for many newly graduated students. Student loans. I’m not writing to complain about my specific situation, though I am going to complain about the system and the environment that created the problem in the first place. I’m not one to talk much about money. Frankly, I try not too care too much about it, I rarely discuss figures, and then, they’re never mine. I’ll mention that I’m broke, once in a while, to explain why I can’t go out, or why I always cook at home, and why I go to thrift stores instead of getting a new piece of clothing. The people that are dear to me know that I have debt, and that I don’t have much money, and the conversation usually stops there. Not even my parents know the actual amount of my debt. Why is that? Because I’m ashamed. I’m so ashamed of the fact that I decided to pursue higher education, and that I didn’t know how to manage my finances. It took a brutal wake-up call between my second and third year of university to understand what a dangerous road I was on. And an even more brutal blow came about a year ago when everything I believed to be stable fell to pieces and I couldn’t even afford my rent. I had to bite through my stubbornness and ask my parents for financial help. I’ve tried desperately to be financially independent for the past few years, and I can’t. I can’t, it’s too much pressure. I can’t handle it. I can’t even understand it. I try to put it in perspective, but it simply doesn’t work. The system is broken, and I’m one out of hundreds of thousands of students trying to crawl back to safety.

I’m in debt. In fact, I have so much debt that when spread out over 15 years, or 180 months, I would need to pay 393.50 per month to get rid of it. Oh wait, that’s not including interest. What? In plain numbers, it means that this very day, my debt stands at $70 829.53. How did this monstrous figure ever creep up so high? I bet you’re feeling very uncomfortable now.
I read about students whose debt is around $30 000, and I want to cry. I hear about those who have less than $20 000, and I’m deadly jealous. I empathise with those who are in the same boat as me. A quick google search reveals that the average student loan in Canada is about $27 000. How did mine ever get so high?

Let’s break it down, shall we. Tuition comes first, at Dalhousie, it runs around $3000 a term. My very first term, I was looking at $8445 for tuition, my room in a residence, and the meal plan offered by the university. That term, I received $4589 in loans. Not enough. I had to take out a private bank loan. Since I was going to face more or less the same situation for the duration of my studies, I took a $10 000 pro annum loan, good for four years. It took me five years to get my degree, and let me tell you, I bit and scratched hard during that final year. $44 424.08, that’s what I paid for five years of full-time education, two classes at NSCAD, and a summer course that took place in the Czech Republic.

Then comes the cost of living. I’m not living in my bedroom in my parents’ house. I moved 700 km away, because nothing at the Université de Moncton, campus d’Edmundston, was able to attract my attention for more than a half second. Result, I need an apartment, electricity, heating, internet, and phone. Aside from that first year when room and board was calculated with my student fees, I had to pay for all of that on top of my already soaring high tuition. Apartments don’t come cheap in Halifax. Landlords like to take advantage of students, and charge them absolutely ridiculous amounts of money for the convenience of having a roof above their heads. Over four years, my rent fell between $500 a month, to $764 a month. The average comes to about $587 a month, so over the remaining four years of my education, it looks like $28 176, give or take a few thousand. And then there’s groceries, and bills, and bus tickets to visit my parents, and school supplies, and unexpected spending, and douchebaggery from people I thought were friends, and break ups, and moving, and so on, and so on. Life is expensive. Stating the obvious.

I started attending university with no money. Of course, I had a part-time job for a couple of years before that. But what are 10 hours a week at $8 an hour going to do, other than cover clothes and meals out for a teenage girl? I was so proud when I bought my mini-fridge just before I moved to Halifax, it was $129, it was almost all I had in my bank account, a few weeks before starting university. I had no concept of money.

Of course I worked during the summers. My first summer, I moved back to New-Brunswick, and worked in a library, in the kids section. It was a fun job, 12 weeks of employment at 36 hours a week at minimum wage. It was a student job created by the government of New-Brunswick. Unfortunately, the apartment market is fierce in Halifax, and we had signed a May-lease for our flat. And as it was our first apartment, and no one was physically in Halifax that summer, we didn’t sublet it. Not that we could have either, everyone sublets during the summer, and the more expensive places don’t meet a great success rate at being rented out. So that summer all my government-subsidized income actually went into a greedy landlord’s pockets. The next summer I stayed in Halifax, and worked in a call centre. It was simply horrible. I made it through until the end of July before walking in one day, dropping my headset, tears streaming down my face, and quitting. The same day, I was starting a new job in the retail industry, working in one of the biggest chains in North America. I had about 20 hours a week at minimum wage during the summer, which barely covered my needs. I kept that job for a little over a year, working 20-25 hours a week while being a full time student. That was my third year. I had been denied student loans because my father retired that year, and received bonuses. That catapulted my case in the: “oh, her parents can pay for her” category. It was tough; I always worked Thursdays through Sundays, with 8 hours shifts on Saturdays and Sundays. I was always grumpy. While my roommates started drinking and partying and blasting music early on Friday nights, all I could think about was that I had be at work by 8 am on Saturdays. I couldn’t blame them either. I wanted to party with them, but I couldn’t afford to miss work because of a hangover.

That following summer, I took up a second part-time job, effectively juggling two schedules for an average of 50 hours a week, and a summer class. I worked seven days a week. I had no life. I dropped one job at the end of the summer, the one that had the least hours. I still worked close to 30 hours a week during my fourth year of university. I did receive loans that year, but as ever, they only barely covered my tuition. I kept the same job over the summer, even though I was away for one month, taking a most wonderful class about baroque culture that elated my mind and made me aware of all the things sublime that I had been oblivious to up until that point. That was one month of lost wages, and it was darn expensive to. I managed to max out my credit card with airfare and accommodations there, and returned to Canada with my last $30 in Czech Korunas. I was glad to be back at work, but business was slow during the summer, and I didn’t work as much as I had before, and so I scraped by. I eventually let go of that job too, because it was a lot of commuting, and I knew I would be overwhelmed with my last, and most intense yet, year at school. It doesn’t mean that I didn’t work. I had three part-time jobs on campus, that somehow I managed to fit into my ridiculous schedule. All in all, I would work about 12 hours a week on average, and it would jump to twice that when there were shows at the theatre, and I was required to spend my evenings dressed in black, politely asking guests for their tickets, and then sitting in the back of the theatre. It was the easiest job I’ve ever had, and I was very grateful for it too. Though ushering was sporadic, it kept me afloat. As I mentioned earlier, my bank loan was only good for four years, and by the time I started fifth year, it was all gone. My student loan was a bit more substantial that year, as a “mature” student, they no longer looked at my parents income when deciding how much lunch money they would grant me for the year. Though it’s a double-edged sword. I had to work to make ends meet, and because I worked, they decided I didn’t need help to afford life’s basic necessities that much…

Of course, I applied to bursaries. And received them steadily at a rate of one per term, starting in second year. It was only ever a few hundred dollars, but they always made me feel a little better about my situation. In November of last year, I received a bursary unexpectedly, to reward my outstanding work in costume studies. It was a life saver. I received the news during the most stressful weeks I’ve ever experienced in my life, when I had about $40 in my name, had recently moved into an overly-expensive one-bedroom apartment, to escape a very complicated situation with another even more expensive apartment… and had the course load of the overachiever that I am, with all the deadlines coming up in the same week, one after the other, like some evil mastermind had decided to make our lives a living hell.

I was also extremely mad when I found out that students who achieved a certain GPA were automatically awarded other bursaries when they had a full course load. I had a full course load, I was working extremely hard and getting stellar grades and praises from my profs. Why wasn’t I receiving one? Because of the NSCAD classes that I was required to take as part of my programme. As “courses from another institution”, they voided my eligibility to those bursaries. It made me sick with rage. I was fuming on the inside.

I made it through. In May my extremely expensive parchment from Dalhousie was mailed to my parents’ house in New-Brunswick. I decided not to attend convocation for two reasons: firstly, I didn’t want to go, I didn’t feel like the ceremony would change my feelings toward the university, which are sour at best, and secondly, I was at work when the ceremony took place. After all that, I still worked three jobs during the summer. I worked like a mad woman. I worked a full-time job, a part-time job, and an opera contract on top of that. I paid off my credit card, and built a little cushion to be able to move to Germany in September. I had many, many breakdowns during the summer. Graduating from university was anti-climactic, and left me with a sense of void.

It’s been almost six months since I finished university. I’ve been living in Germany for about six weeks now. My financial cushion is mostly gone, I have enough to cover my living expenses until the end of November, although I’m trying to convince myself that the 50€ in my wallet is all that I have until I get paid. Which I hope is soon. Student loan payments are supposed to start in a couple of weeks. I’m not sure what I’m going to do. I received a fixed salary here, which is enough for me to live on and travel a bit, though I need to tighten my budget a little, and monitor my expenses more closely. But it’s definitely not enough to afford $400 in payments every month. Before I left, I called the national student loan service of Canada, and explained my situation. Normally, I would be eligible for loan repayment help, because I have a very limited income, though there’s one small detail that disqualifies me from such help. I’m not currently living in Canada. Great. Because obviously I would give up the opportunity to live and work in Germany. I also applied for a programme that shaves back a few thousand dollars from student debt when post-secondary education is completed in a timely fashion. I heard of other people taking five years to obtain their bachelor’s, and qualifying for that help, and so I thought I would qualify too. Too optimistic? Of course. I was denied.

Which is what sparked this essay about my student loan debt story. I’m not writing to complain. I’m writing to expose the fact that I busted my ass off, I worked like a crazy person. I got a degree with straight A’s, even though I worked through my studies for the past three years. I’ve always had a roof over my head, always had heat to keep me warm, and food in my belly, and I can’t start expressing how grateful I am for those things. But God damn it, I’m still not out of that hell hole, and I won’t be for the next 15 years.

What happens to those poor fellows who have big dreams of university, and can’t afford to go? The government of Canada told me that my parents had to contribute $10 000 per year to my studies. Uhm, excuse me, my parents don’t have that money to just give me as they please. I have other siblings, there’s the house to fix, cars to pay for, insurance and bills. The last thing I want to be is another burden on my parents’ shoulders.


If it hadn’t been for that bank loan, I wouldn’t have been able to attend university at all. What can someone do without a degree nowadays? When will the people in charge of this great country that is Canada realize that post-secondary education should not be reserved to the elite. Post-secondary education is a right, and it is not okay to let universities spike their tuition and burden their students with more financial stress than ever. Why can’t Canada follow in the steps of some of the European countries such as France, Germany, and Sweden. Or closer to home, make a step in the same direction as Newfoundland, and eliminate student debt by converting loans into grants. If we pride ourselves in being such a great nation, maybe, just maybe we should start investing in our future. How are we supposed to fix the economy if students are crippled with debt as soon as they emerge, fresh-faced and dreamy from university? This situation is a great social injustice, and I am mad, and afraid, and unsure about the future. I am flustered as I type these words. How are we supposed to build a country in our image if we postpone our dreams and hopes in order to repay our loans? Post-secondary education is there to open our minds to the possibilities, to fine-tune our senses, to make us dream of a better future, to outfit us with the tools to build that future. But as soon as we graduate, we are faced with that wall, and we are chained to it, and there’s no escape.

This is my story, and I don’t doubt that there are thousands of similar stories out there. Of students outraged, and anxious. If we all wrote our stories, and sent them to Ottawa, do you think they would listen? Do you think they would realize what hardships we go through? Do you think they would try and rectify the situation? Do you think they would do anything?

Wednesday, 15 October 2014

Introversion vs. Extroversion

This topic seems very current, or at least to me it is.
I don't know what it is about it, but I've been drawn to this topic lately. What with all the random posts, the quizzes, the lists, the advice being given. How do you know you are an introvert, how do you know you are an extrovert? I admit, I've done the quizzes, I've scanned the lists, I've tried to pin-point myself down to one or the other. I give up.
Those labels just don't work. They could be compared to another topic that is very current, gender identity, though I'm using this only for the comparison, to give a reference when I say that it should be treated as a spectrum.

Up until last year, I never felt the need to try to identify with one or the other. Then suddenly my life upended itself last year and I was left with reconsidering every single aspect of myself. Well, maybe it wasn't quite so dramatic, and maybe this shares more common points with a rant than anything else. I will claim no fine penmanship, nor will I say that this is a finite statement. It is simply my complete refusal of the up-until-now given definitions of the terms. If one was to believe what information is readily available, one would classify itself in one or the other. They are effectively diametrically opposites. I hate it. Maybe that's a bit harsh. I strongly dislike it. Better.

It seems to be agreed upon that it relates to where an individual draws its energy. An introvert would find social interaction draining and would need down-time to recover, whereas an extrovert would find it exhilarating. I call bullshit. It makes no sense. This is a completely subjective piece of writing, but I find that both can be equally draining or invigorating. Why? It's tricky, but I suppose it really depends on who/what/where/how. Who you are with, what you're doing, where it's taking place, how you're feeling, and so on. Let's use an example that I'm making up right now as I type. Say that you're in a bad mood, going to do an activity that you feel lukewarm about, it's going to put a damper no matter if you're by yourself or with other people. On the other hand, if you're really excited about visiting a new place, say you found some ruins a short bike ride away from town, or visiting a museum you've never been to, the experience is bound to be elating (at best) or at least inspiring, whether or not you're alone.

Obviously, sometimes you might want to explore completely by yourself, say if you want to go at your own pace, or you think that someone else wouldn't enjoy it as much, or want to wander around as long. Absolutely fair. Personally, if I'm finding that social interaction is straining, it means I'm not spending time with the right people. If I find that being alone is straining, it's because I'm not using my time in a way that is stimulating, and that pushes me forward. Maybe it's because I haven't had the leisure of free time for the past three years, and now I find that any time is sacred and should be put to good use. Maybe it's just growing up and figuring out what you find important, and investing time and energy in only a few things and people, rather than squandering your time on mediocre activities. It sounds really harsh, but this makes more sense to me than anything else I've read.

Another example, more concrete this time, and again subjective. One evening I was feeling particularly bored, and I decided to go out. I don't really know many people in Weimar, and I'm usually perfectly contempt staying in reading a book or working on my German, and so I was a little hesitant. Going out alone is definitely not something I do often, as I know that whoever I meet probably won't leave an impression beyond those few hours. At that point, I was still mildly associating with being an introvert. Anyhow, I went out to one of the bars, and lo and behold, I had a great time. With complete strangers. Actually, complete strangers with absolutely no common interests, as there happened to be a large number of PHD chemistry students in the bar... If you look at the this scenario from the intro/extro point of view, I should have found the experience draining. Which I did not. Not that I would invest any further time in any of them, but it's an interesting thought.

I think that this whole introvert/extrovert categorisation is just to give people excuses to stay in or go out. Because really, in the end, it's what you make of each individual experience that decides if you drew energy from it, or if drew energy from you. Everyone has had to go through unpleasant social situations or conversations that left them exhausted, and everyone has gone through days they spent alone, feeling even more tired than when they woke up. I really think that it is redundant to try and say that everyone falls in one category or the other. Sorry, not sorry, but it's silly to try and categorise people this way. This has been excessively annoying me, and I hope that I'm not the only weirdo out here who thinks this way.

I have been mulling over this for a while, and maybe I'm completely wrong. Actually, I'm not even entirely sure that my argument makes total sense. Maybe this is a very poorly constructed argument, or maybe I'm missing the point completely. I'm always open to different points of view and discussion. I hope this shed some light for some people, or that it sparked a few ideas, or that at least it was a well-spent five minutes.

Friday, 26 September 2014

The estranged dressmaker

Another option for the title would be the alienated dressmaker, both are more or less equivalent. And here in Germany, strangers are blatantly referred to as "aliens" (no, I kid you not). The official translation of the Ausländerbehörde, a.k.a. the place where I go to get my visa, is the aliens department...

Anyhow. I'm far away from home, and I have extremely limited supplies when it comes to creating costumes. Which is, you know, that thing that I reaaaaally enjoy doing. With this in mind, I decided to attempt my first ever completely by-hand garment (no sewing machine yet), and what more perfect time period to pick than the 14th century? With some tips from my friend Peryn (her deviant account here: http://arasiyris.deviantart.com/) I started gathering materials for this new project.

14th century kirtle

First, some reference pictures. The kirtles are the under-dresses, seen in pink, black and yellow in the second picture.

I bought some fabric when I was in Paris (insert here the high-pitched noise that girls make when they see puppies or babies). I have black linen, gold block printed silk, and purple cotton (which, it turns out, has a little bit of spandex in it, so it's not as stiff and offers some stretch). Although I'm aiming at somewhat of an historically accurate garment, I have to make some compromises. I decided to use the cotton for this kirtle. Already there, we find three blatant inaccuracies: cotton was not common, spandex didn't exist, and purple was a colour reserved for royalty since it was extremely expensive and difficult to acquire. But for a first project that I'll probably only where in my room, I think they can be forgiven.

I had absolutely no drafting equipment here, and I decided to make do. I bought the cheapest-largest sketchpad I could find, fashioned a ruler/straight edge with a piece of paper. Materials I already had: a pencil, an eraser, a measuring tape, a pair of paper scissors, and my knowledge.
In this image, as can be seen, I have already drafter the bodice of the kirtle. It has no darts, the shaping is found at the sides, centre back, and at the top of centre front. Now, this is actually just a tentative draft, I have no certainty that this will actually fit me. Self-measurements and self-fitting is a little tricky. It resulted in a lot of awkard poses in front of the mirror, holding a stiff piece of paper and trying to make marks on it. Something like that:
I think the bodice will fit, so I went ahead and drafted a medieval sleeve to fit the arm opening.
Next challenge in this process, laying out the pattern on the fabric. That took some planning, as I only have 3 metres of fabric.
And some re-planning during the process, as I had to alter the sleeves and remembered that seam allowances are important to take into account.
I had previously washed the fabric, and left it to air dry in my room, artfully draped between the cupboard and the ladder.
 Fabric which then required to be released from it's crinkles. To the makeshift ironing board!
 Laying down the bodices pieces and tracing the outline of the skirt in chalk. I have no proper cutting table, but the thick carpet is perfect, really. The fabric doesn't slide around like it would on a hardwood floor, and I can pin into it without any problems.
 Drawing the the four gores that will give more volume to the skirt.
 And tah-dah! Two front pieces, two backs, two sleeves, four gores, even some extra fabric left over. I can use that extra fabric to make the buttons that will go on the sleeves. And I already have some purple thread as well as a leather-ish string that I'll use to lace up the front of the kirtle.
The ridiculously small sewing kit that I brought with me should be sufficient to get me through this project. It contains the basics. Good fabric scissors, snips, thimble, seam-ripper, pins and needles.

I'll need to baste the pieces together and check the fit before I commit to anything permanent. It should take a while to sew up together, but it's not a bad thing. I have lot's of free time, and I'm really broke. It's a win-win situation: an efficient way of keeping me both occupied and entertained.